It totally depends on what you are shooting. For landscapes, usually f/8-f/11, ISO 100 and shutter 1/250 or higher during day time. Similarly for portraits, f/2.5, ISO 100 and shutter 1/250 or higher.

In any lens, elements are the specific lens pieces used and how are they arranged to obtain a particular feature, the arrangement is the group. Lenses pieces are usually arranged in groups. In lens, say if it is a zoom lens, it will have more number of elements and groups, where as for a prime lens, it will have less number of groups and elements. 

Usually it is termed as the more number of groups and elements, the better the quality but it is not always true. Lens quality also depends on the type of glass, design mechanism, manufacturing process of the lens. So for a particular focal length, a prime lens would be better than the zoom lens.

Prime lenses usually perform better than zoom lenses.

First question is that how do you understand if a lens is of high quality and will produce quality DOF (better DOF).

I'd like to explain DOF as not dependant on lens quality but dependant on aperture number (f-number). Usually low f-number lenses are expensive like 85mm f/1.4 is pretty expensive than 85mm f/1.8 costlier. f/1.4 lenses are also termed as better quality lens due to their internal structure.

Let's try one thing. Keeping ISO and shutter same, shoot at f/2.5 with 85mm f/1.4 lens then shoot with 85mm f/1.8 lens. DOF will remain almost similar irrespective of the cost of the lens. But if you want to produce even better DOF with either lens, you will have to shoot at f/1.8 on 85mm f/1.8 lens and shoot at f/1.4 on 85mm f/1.4 lens. Now you will find you the background is very much smooth in that image which was shoot at f/1.4 on 85mm f/1.4. So the reason is lower f number produce better DOF.

DOF is not the only reason to buy expensive prime lenses. There are other factors as well:

1. f/1.4 lens will be fast than f/1.8 lens.

2. Ideal for low light situation.

3. Better quality image.

If you find above points reasonable to invest large amount, can go with it. I don't think so until you buy lenses, can try new lenses at shop. Though you can get them all on rent for a day to experiment if you like the performance. Then you choose to go with.

If I'm hobby photographer, I'd prefer to go with f/1.8 lens as it saves a lot.

Reply for more queries on the topic.

Is your camera old? Cleaning might be the reason for the loud sound of shutter. You can get your camera cleaned.

About the blurry images in long shutter, camera cleaning may be an issue. Another reason, it could be, switch off the VR whenever you set the camera on tripod. Also you can try wired/wireless shutter release to overcome the issue.

1 Best way to click pictures on a mobile phone is by using grid mode available on every cell phonenow you just have to put 9 things in those 9 boxes which will result in beautiful composition 

2. The angle from where click picture

In the wedding photography you can mostly click candid photos, because the expression we want to capture comes unexpectedly. Portrait photos are the best clicks because in the wedding there are lots people people's gathered, so it is very difficult to get required space. Thank you 🙏💕. 

First of all that you should not try to disturb the audience. Always try to capture pictures from roaming around the walls of auditorium. Better to go with Telephoto for taking candid shots for stage subjects or from the audience.

Another thing is that you can use another camera for wide angle shots of entire stage or the audience.

Types of equipment that are needed to shoot long exposures

A tripod – this is a good piece of equipment to have in most instance, but is a critical piece of equipment for shooting long exposures. Make sure your camera is properly mounted on the tripod before you start shooting.

A camera – obviously you will need a camera, but many people assume you can only do this type of photography with an SLR. Some advanced point-and-shoot cameras can also do long exposures if they have a Shutter Priority function. Take a look in your camera’s manual to see if it has this function, you may be surprised.

Cable release – your camera will be on a tripod, so it should be very still, however, sometimes the action of pressing the shutter release button can cause the camera to move slightly and this movement can cause your image to blur very slightly. You may not notice this on the LCD screen, but when you open the image on your computer, it will be evident. I recommend getting a cable release (also called a remote trigger). It is simply a cable that attaches to your camera and acts as a shutter release button. Using a cable release means you can set up your camera, step away from the tripod and press the button without touching the camera. Cable releases can be wireless too. If you don’t have a cable release or don’t want to buy one, you could use your camera’s self-timer function to trigger the shutter.

Camera settings should be used

Shutter speed – depending on the light in your scene, your shutter time will need to be at least 10 to 15 seconds, or longer if necessary. If you are doing a seascape and the water is moving quickly, then a few seconds may be long enough to make the water look misty.

Aperture – you will want to have your aperture set at anywhere between f/8 and f/16. This again will be determined by how much light is in the scene and how long you want to expose for.

ISO – keep your ISO settings as low as possible, ISO 100 is what I use for long exposures.

It’s normally a good idea to shoot long exposures as the sun is setting, or just after sunset. My suggestion is to be on the scene an hour before sunset. That way you can test some shots, make sure your composition is good and be sure all your settings are correct. 

Any telephoto lens with focal length 200mm and above would be good. This is generic and affordable for most of amateur photographers. 

If you are willing to specialize in wildlife or willing to venture out in wildlife photography, can go for 150-600mm lens.

LR Classic is basically what we all are used to what earlier used to be LR CC (Only Desktop based).

The LR CC is the new addition in LR list and is a stripped down version of LR Classic. Good thing about LR CC is you can sync your photos across devices (Desktop, browser, phone, tablet.)

But then the new LR CC has many new features missing. You don’t have Tone adjustments, Split Toning missing, Camera Calibration panel missing, no face recognition, no healing brushes, no upright tools,

BIG DRAWBACK: Adjustment History missing (OMG!!). if you are used to making HDRs and Panaromas in LR, then new CC lacks the feature. Heck, it even does not allow you to add Watermark on a photo. You will have to move the pic to Photoshop, add Watermark and then save (that’s a lot just for adding Watermark).

No Print Module-so you can’t work on collages.

Advantages of CC: Automatic Backup to Cloud, Sensei keyword tool- This will keyword your photos when you upload it to cloud. So when you check for any ‘lake’ photos it will list all lake photos, or you search for ‘kingfisher’, it may list all kingfisher bird. I can’t promise that Sensei will behave as it promises, but this is how it is supposed to behave.

LR CC: You can only save 1 TB of Photos on Cloud after which you will have to buy more space

LR Classic: Unlimited as everything is stored on your Desktop.

LR CC is good for casual Photographers who need to put images immediately from anywhere on social platforms...LR Classic is for a little serious Photographers